Mens AW17 Collection Review / Walk this way 走出你的方式
Article written by Drew Whittam / Sourced Images courtesy of Models.com / Collage by LAB Gallerie
Gabrielle Sauve [Features Director]
MENS AW17 REVIEW / Walk this way 走出你的方式
January means men’s fashion month, and after an all-too-rocky end to 2016, the collections shown across the fashion capitals of Europe and North America arrived just in time for us all to release a collective gasp of escapist release. Despite the January collections always being somewhat untimely in our half of the hemisphere, the runways of London, Milan, Paris and New York were awash with versatile looks awaiting appropriation for our warmer climes. Here we demonstrate that with a little ingenuity and imagination, we can all benefit from the newest offerings of the world’s foremost fashion creatives: whatever the weather.
Take a step on the wide side
Although Demna Gvasalier’s dramatic wide shouldered coats and jackets once again formed the central aesthetic of his latest outing for the Parisian fashion house, VETEMENTS, look to the wide legged, ultra long trousers for inspiration next season. Lightweight and roomy, pair with a pristine pair of bulky-soled sandals and one of PORT 1961’s slouchy shirts with oversized breast pockets for a look that minimises fuss and maximises impact. Other great incarnations of the wide, diaphanous trouser were also in full force at JW Anderson and at xyz, proving that the capacious trouser is to become a staple look worth investing in.
The suit has undergone some considerable reimagining for winter, but it is the suit jacket that offers itself up as perhaps the most versatile piece of the season. For cooler evenings think Lemaire’s of-the-moment drop hemmed, double breasted blazer as an alternative to the bulky coats needed at northern latitudes. Worn unfastened, it is a practical and effortlessly chic solution to layering in a multitude of occasions; from relaxed daywear to evening elegance. Neil Barratt’s offerings were also noteworthy for their relaxed, rounded shoulders worn with textured knits. Substitute the heavier sweaters and jumpers seen here for lighter versions in merino wool, a great thermo-regulator more likely to keep you cooler in the heat.
This season, inspiration came from a proletarian perspective, channeled through the vision of everyone from hip hop hustlers to factory workers. Not exactly a groundbreaking idea on paper, but the camouflage print seemed to encapsulate this essence for many designers; seen embellished at Balmain, in hooded boiler suit form at Walter Van Bierendonck and magnified across co-ords at Maharishi. The traditional colours of the print– khaki, camel and stone, was also prevalent for MSGM in Paris, where they formed the basis of the collections’ palette. Ubiquitous across the entire season was the tracksuit: the perfect simultaneous nod to both the ‘90s cool of the Fresh Prince and to workwear. Reinterpret this look by exaggerating lighter, oversized layers as seen in ensembles at Comme des Garcon Shirt for an off-duty day look.
Get The Message
A continuation of the huge street influence for the season, the logo was perhaps the biggest push for many of the brands looking to rack up column inches; seen through Louis Vuitton’s much-hyped collaboration with Supreme, and also at the powerhouses of Dior, Fendi and Lanvin. Ports 1961 emblazoned the word ‘love’ in multiple languages across hoodies and oversized sweaters, with Fendi following suit, with words such as ‘try’ and ‘think’ reoccurring through a collection of ‘80s inspired highlighter brights. If you don’t quite feel like being so literal with your world-view, try attracting attention through slices of acidic colour juxtaposed against muted tones and crisp whites; a noticeable aesthetic seen across the spectrum for the season.